A quick project to test a theory that I had, and to see if I could re-use the strips of MDF lying around. The used of the MDF worked well, and the sub was impressive for an 8″.
I have to start by saying that when they do work, the Prismacolor Premier pencils are a joy to use. However they are far to soft resulting in you having to sharpening them with annoying regularity.
The other issue is the tendency for the leads to break. The only conclusion that I’ve been able to come up with is that because of the poor build quality of the Prisma’s, with emphasis on some of the pencil leads being off centre, leads breaking must be the result.
Prismacolor Problems: Leads are off center/centre
As for the build quality, when I looked at the Black and White in the set, the wood looks to be totally different. Not sure what is going on with the Prismacolor brand, but the comments are that since Prisma moved their production to South America, quality and customer service (which appears to be none existent) has suffered.
Yes I am obsessed by the performance of the Hybrid Audio I6SW subwoofer. Ever since PWK’s (AKA Hexibase) video ‘Just Imagine’, I was memorized, but I didn’t believe that a 6.5″ sub could really convince people to that degree, it did! The best guess I received was a young enthusiast with a JBL prefab 12″ sub in the back of his mini. His guess was “3 x 10’s on 500+ watts.” So out came my Digital Designs DDLE312 12″ prefab, and the Hybrid Audio I6SW subwoofer became my resident subwoofer.
Here are my transmission line considerations. Lower down the page are some pictures of my builds. Enjoy!
Straight T-line Z-Box 32 x 12 – 87.75″ line
Don’t Try This At Home – 23 x 12 – 69″ line
L-Shape – 39 x 9 – 74″ Line
Short L-Shape – 32 x 13 x 9 – 62.25″ Line
L-Shape Box – 39 x 14.25 – 76.25″ Line
L-Shape Box – 39 x 8.25 x 8.25 – 75.75″ Line
Twin Hybrid Audio I6SW enclosure, inspired by Hexibase Tacoma Transmission Line video
Single Fold – 39 x 8.25 x 8.25 – 74.5″ Line –
Z-Box – 24 x 12 – 69.75″ Line
L-Shape – 32 x 9 – 65″ Line
L-Shape – 39 x 8 – 76.25″ Line
Single Fold – 39 x 7.5 x 7.5 – 74.75″ Line
Z-Box – 27 x 11.25 – 78.75″ Line
As Nature Intended – Single fold designed to FS – 43 Hz – 32 x 9
L-Shape – 33 x 10 – 67.25″ Line
Polystyrene Styrofoam Transmission Line Enclosure consideration for Hybrid Audio I6SW subwoofer
Hear It playing. Watch from 5:45
PWK Inspired L-Shape – 35 x 11 – 70.5″ line
PWK Inspired L-Shape Box – 66.75″ Line
My Transmission Line Builds For Hybrid Audio I6SW
It would seem that Pen and Ink artists use a variety of pens, even on a single piece of artwork. So here’s what I used for the above piece.
From right to left:
Pentel 120 A3DX 0.7mm Mechanical Pencil
Pentel Brush Pen – GFKP3A
Copic Multiliner Black 0.05mm
Copic Multiliner SP 0.1mm
rotring Tikky Graphic Pen 0.1mm (adds a thicker line than the Copic 0.1mm)
Sakura Pigma Micron 005 (0.05mm) & 01 (0.1mm).
Is that enough to be getting on with?
Each pen, regardless of nib width, has its own effect and character, which adds to the image as a whole.
For the most part, the Pentel mechanical pencil is used to outline the border and sometimes used to outline the image as well. The Pentel brush pen was used sparingly in this piece, but it is a stunning tool to work with.
The Copic Multiliner’s do not suit my style of drawing. The normal Multiliner’s have only lasted a few hours, and the Multiliner SP has a super-fine metal tip, which has stopped working properly in my 0.03mm Copic SP, has bent in my 0.05mm pen, but the 0.1 seems to be holding up for now. The Multiliner SP is a strange beast to work with. You can hear the pen ‘scratching’ the paper, but it (0.1mm) is a smooth tool to work with, more so than the normal fibre-tip Multiliner.
Because if the semi unreliability of these types of graphic pens for my particular style, I’m going to have to re-think what I’m doing and maybe change my approach to how I use these pens. I’m still used to working with biro, and so I’m trying to use these technical pens in the same way, which is good, if I want to ware them out, and bankrupt myself by the end of the month!
rotring Tikky Graphic (lower case ‘r’ for some reason) … is a good product, although for fine work I find it a bit too dark and heavy and the line is too thick for what I want. And so I use it to blend in the marks made from the Pentel brush pen.
Sakura Pigma Micron pens I’ve only purchased them this week. On initial use, they seems better and smoother than the Copic Mulitliner’s. I’m hoping they’ll survive longer than the Multiliner’s.
I’ve abandoned the Biro art. The last piece that I did started to turn yellow, a problem that I’ve constantly struggled with. I’m using pen & ink for now, just getting used to the new process. Got some exciting things in the pipeline, but for now this is just a bit of practice.
In the name of Progress, I’m going to have to (semi) destroy one of the two pieces below. Destroy is a bit harsh, ‘Experimenter’ is a better word.
I was drawing this whilst on the phone to my dad. I was listening to you dad!
A build last year for a JBL-GTO 804 8″ subwoofer, which is a little beast of a thing. The GTO 804 hits low enough on its own, but I wanted to push the limits a bit more, so I aimed at the JBL’s given FS figure of 29Hz. However, one doesn’t simply tune a box around a single Helmholtz resonance figure, you aim for a specific response or response curve. This was a transmission line built purely for SQ in mind. It hits low but I managed to design it to smooth out unwanted peaks in the response. Its not an SPL Monster, but it plays flat and hits low. Far better than your average 12″ pre-fab subwoofer enclosure from your local car audio shop, even though its only an 8″
39 x 12 x 10
At the moment, I’m sorting out my home audio set up. I was inspired by PWK’s Dipoles where Pete uses a pair of Dayton Audio speakers ( www.youtube.com/watch?v=qCDR_PKk8FY ) and this design (images & link to the project below) where an Alpine SWS-1023D 10″ subwoofer has been used to help the low frequencies along.
home.comcast.net/~cunundrum/site/ – copy and paste link into URL bar
This is where the Alpine speakers come in.
If my understanding on IB speaker and subwoofer designs is correct, one of the most common features sought for in a project like this, is for either the speaker of subwoofer to have a high QTS of around 0,5 or more. My disastrous project with the Alpine SPR-69 6×9 speakers taught me one thing, focus on the project first and foremost, be true to the aims of your project (and realistic) and then find the components best suited to the project.
Of course I simple did this in reverse and did what 95% of people do. Find or buy components first, then try to get them to do what you want. It can work … sometimes, but the Alpines have such high Q’s, and my desired outcomes was near impossible.
I am being hard on myself. It was only until after I bought the SPR-69’s that I found out what the T/S parameters were (after contacting Alpine). As a consequence, I was also told that the SPG and/or SPS speakers also had very high Q’s. Its not a disaster and I wouldn’t anyone off buying Alpine speakers, far from it. They are superb speakers which I wish more people would choose over the many poor but expensive speakers. Yes Vibe springs to mind!
On with the
Vibe bashing project
Quick test set up with a cardboard baffle
I’ve played around with a pair of Alpine SXE 1025s 4″ speakers, then moved up to a pair of Alpine SXE 1325s 5.25″ speakers. Now I’m onto a pair of Alpine Alpine SPS-517 5×7 speakers, and they really, really kick. I’ve got my Muse MU-15 MKII (15 watts @ 4 ohm) amp at about 12:30 on the volume dial, and that’s plenty enough!
Am I going to keep it pure Alpine.
I was looking at buying either a pair of Peerless SLS 6.5″ woofers (subwoofer) or go mad and buy a pair of Peerless XLS10 (P830452) subwoofers, and bi-amp the system. I have a Class D amp on the way. for reasons of size, I don’t really want to go bigger than 10″ subs.
And then for a dedicated subwoofer, I’m going to use my Sundown Audio SA-12.
Having received interest in regards to the blurred foreground in some of my work, I have to state that it isn’t a product of poor photography skills, although I’m no David Hockney. The blurred foreground(s) are very much planned and drawn, in order to give the piece a feeling of depth whilst adding to true realism. For me, a simple fact of blurring the image where necessary is a part of photo-realistic art that in the most part, is missing.
This was done with a Bic Atlantis Blue pen and my new Staedtler Ball 432 M Light Blue. The Staedtler M (medium) pens appear to give a finer line than the Bic medium pens, and just as easy to use. So in the future, I’ll reserve using to the Staedlter’s for finer detailed pieces. This piece was hard to walk away from, but the project spanned over many weeks, and so I had to make a decision to stop ‘fiddling’ about and move on to the next piece.
Approx 30+ hours
At one point I had a play around with the sun shining through my net curtains, and thought it might be a good effect to draw in myself. However, I went for the simple option for now, just in the interest of speed.
Please leave a comment and let me know what you think.
This transmission line enclosure wasn’t meant for the speakers, but in desperation I fitted my (leftover) DB Audio T-Rex 5.1 5.25″ car audio speakers.
Muse MU-15 MK2 Class T Amplifier
Another Transmission line design for the T-Rex speakers
Mock up before assembly
My first attempts at my own version of the JL Audio CP108LG 8W3v3 subwoofer enclosure. I did have one, however I sold it. Now I’m trying to perfect my own version of it for my last JBL GTO-804 subwoofer (brilliant little beast of a thing!).
I ripped the JL Audio 8W3v3 out of the CP108LG enclosure, and went to work on a transmission line to hit high 20’s. It was a beast of a thing, and i miss it badly. The Google Sketchup picture of the enclosure design is for my Hybrid Audio I6SW subwoofer, but it was built on the same design pattern.
My take on the CP108LG enclosure
My Second attempt on the CP108 enclosure, built for a car audio enthusiast with limited space.
Leigh’s previous twin Vibe Audio Slick 10″ subwoofer set up
Vibe Slick 10 (left), Sundown Audio E-10 (right)
The Vibe is no real comparative to the Sundown audio. in Leigh’s word;
“The Vibe is just a paper weight in comparison!”
Padding the sub out with Acoustic Foam first to effectively, make the enclosure smaller, then adding some Acoustic Wadding s per Sundown Audio’s instructions.
Leigh’s Vibe Slick 10 sub is totally cooked, and so he decided to go ahead and stick the Sundown Audio E-10 in its place. Not good, because the enclosure is not optimised for the Sundown E-10, and the enclosure has no polyfil in it So the Sundown is struggling to perform to its real potential. As this is only a temporary measure, I’m planing to reduce the internal volume of the current sealed enclosure, to that recommended by Sundown using acoustic foam padding. Then I’ll add some polyfil as recommenced.
And the project so far …. has taken a back step so for now it’s been put on hold
I have to say that I had serious doubts about sticking the E-10 into a sealed enclosure. I didn’t think it was going to be that good on output, and I certainly didn’t expect anything like the depth that is does produce. Coming from the 12″ SA-12 subwoofer in a sub high 20’s transmission line enclosure to a 10″ in a sealed enclosure, I thought the SA-12 would be a clear winner. In truth, I’m not quite sure its that cut and dry. To be honest, the E-10 in its sealed enclosure design as stated by Sundown is seriously impressive! Some argue that manufacturers play it safe. Whether that’s the case here, maybe it is. However the E-10 in a sealed enclosure has far exceeded my expectations of what a 102 subwoofer can do.
I hasten to add that even after the many JL Audio subwoofers I have owned, each that have been brilliant at what they do, even with the entry level E Series subwoofer form Sundown Audio, it would take a lot from JL Audio to make me buy their subwoofers over Sundown. I have every respect for JL Audio, but for my listening preferences and even on an SQ level, the Sundown subs are really in a different league!
I’m in the process of doing a full Hybrid Audio I6SW refurb, with a new enclosure based on PWK’s Porsche Hybrid design.
I’m going to cut away the damaged dust cap, all but the rim. then I’ve been advised to glue on a totally new dust cap. Another suggestion from diymobileaudio.com was to use epoxy resin to repair it.